Jan 08, 2011  I have a Belgium (FN) made Browning Auto 5 20 ga. Which has a serial number whose nomanclature is not listed on the Browning web page. The serial number has two rows of numbers, the top being 71Z and the bottom 5xxx1.

Quote: Also, does anyone know what the X means in the serial number above? From the link provided, there doesn't seem to be an 'X' code for this year model?

You are correct - it was made in 1971. I think the 'X' means it is a Magnum Twenty - I know 'Z' was the Light Twenty (similar to the 'M' and 'G' for 12 gauges listed on the Browning website above).

Edit to add: I shoot the heck out of my 1976 A5 Light Twelve, and I'd LOVE that 20 - you've got a heck of a piece of history there. I originally opened this thread really hoping you were selling. [This message has been edited by Ark03 (edited 2/25/2013 11:49a).]. Quote: One more question. The gun is marked for a 3' shell but can these guns normally shoot a 2 3/4' or should I stick to the 3? Not sure if it is historically a problem with this one.

You can shoot 2-3/4' all day long in it. Just make sure you visit the website above and ensure the friction ring is in the proper configuration for the load you are shooting. I would treat all high brass, regardless of length, the same with respect to how you set up the friction ring. Same with light/skeet/target loads in both sizes. If you notice there are issues with ejection, swap the configuration and see how it works. I've personally never had an issue with different loads operating or not operating on my 20 gauge, but that gun was built in 1918 or so and has had about a half million rounds pushed through it, so it's well broken in. My 12 gauge didn't have any issues with some skeet loads, but I had it set up specifically for the lighter recoiling loads.

Not sure on the Brownings, but on the Remingtons the barrel choke is stamped near the chamber on the underside of the barrel. You need to remove the forearm to find it. Both of mine are full chokes, and reaching out to 60 yards with the 20 gauge isn't unheard of. In fact, a childhood friend of my grandfather downed a goose with it at 90 yards (+/-) - a single pellet hit the elbow in the wing. Lucky as hell on the shot. I was young and dumb once and fired a slug through it - and my shoulder paid the price. The poster above that mentioned tight chokes is 100% correct.

This guide is for the Browning A5 16 gauge only. Browning 12ga numbers began with number 1 in 1903. Neo geo rom ng sfix rom. The 16ga number 1 began in 1909. The two sets of numbers are different.

A common mistake I have seen in many, many, gun shops and online sites is to assign the 12ga serial number date to a 16ga. I compiled this quick reference serial number guide for dating 16ga Browning A5s and the Auto 5-3 Shot, by serial number. I decided to share it here since this is where much of my limited knowledge came from. The serial number and dates are approximations only. These dates were gleaned primarily from Sauerfan's timeline and the Shirley/Vanderlinden book.

Details about dates, transitions, exceptions, and other nuances can be found in the Shirley/Vanderlinden book, Browning Auto 5 Shotguns. I took the liberty to use the Calandar Year Jan. 31 for the X series. FN used the Fiscal Year July-June. Other factors need to be taken into consideration to properly date your gun. I found what I thought was a very early 1948 Sweet Sixteen based on the serial number.

Browning informed me the gun left the factory in 1955. 1909 1 - 3200 1910 to 1914 There is only vague info about 16 ga SNs in SV (page 74) for the time 1910 to 1914. SNs 3201 – 15000 were invoiced between 1st Jan. 1910 and 30th June 1913.